Thursday, February 2, 2012

Stewart Family Holiday - Annapurna Basecamp

Getting these Nepal blogs done is like pulling teeth - except that I have a few less teeth than Nepal blogs to pull.

The ever so slightly intrepid Stewart family followed on their exploration of the Kali Gandakai with a ten day trek from Tatopani in the west to Dhampus in the east with an excursion to Annapurna basecamp thrown in. Slightly more ambitious than we had planned, but once you're committed there is no going back.

We came from the left - up and down the valley - then down to the right

The lower parts of this trek were through much more heavily agricultural country. The homeland of the Gurung people. This is part of the original "Annapurna Circuit" but in the most part its popularity is waning due to the development of the Kali Gandaki road. This meant there were copious and competitively priced guesthouses for us to stay in at most places. The scenic shit hole of Tadapani being a notable exception. During the trip we lost Gemma, I dropped her off one day down at the nearest road end (bottom middle of above picture). Mainly my memories are of relaxing times with some stunning views and some lovely forests, a beautiful little part of the world.

Heading towards Shikha

Gurung Villagee

Mum and drying corn

We did the whole "Poon hill" thing, getting up early with the crowds of people, and enduring the early morning chill as the sun rose over the Annapurnas and Dhaulagiri. Not too shabby a view, with some interesting clouds.

Annapurnas on left - Macchapuchare on right

The sunrises over wooded ridges

Rhododendrons, Annapurnas and Clouds
From Poon Hill the walk really was mostly downhill. With just a few little ups. We certainly saw some extreme suffering of people heading the other (wrong) way. We cruised through the rhododendron forests, the millet fields and the terraced valleys and on up the Modi Khola towards Annapurna basecamp.

The last good team photo before Gem left us

Dad and Dhaulagiri

Mum giving instructions

Mum in the Rhododendron forest

Looking up the Modi Khola

A reminder of conflicts (hopefully) past.

Trailing porters to Annapurna Basecamp.

Our eventual arrival at Annapurna Basecamp was quite a momentous occasion for the family. we have always had a copy of Herzog's "Annapurna" in the bookshelf but despite this it almost seemed a mythical place, far far away. There was a huge sense of satisfaction at having made it, which was awesome. As Mum pointed out this was sort of like the climax of our trip, it was all (literally) down from here, and it certainly felt like that as we turned our backs on the mountains and headed down. You can almost see it in our faces I think.

Annapurna Basecamp 4130metres

Annapurna Basin posefest.
Turning our back on a mighty mountain

The walk out was peaceful. It actually only took three days, we must have been getting fit. I can't remember much about it, and we don't have many photos. Quite a bit of wandering along, not saying much, looking forward to getting a massive cheap feed in Pokhara. Kids on the track singing for money. Sun and butterflies.

And lots of marigolds everywhere

And a fair bit of rice ready to harvest.
A very memorable and fulfilling piece of travel indeed. A few weeks that I am sure we will be remembering in our family for a long long time.

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